Monday, November 24, 2008

Bishop Part I

I arrived in Bishop on Friday night, and I'll be staying here for the rest of this month. When I got here I went straight to the Sad Boulders. It was after 9 PM when I arrived, and it took me a little while to find the boulders since I was going off my memory from almost 2 years ago. I took several wrong turns, but after a little while I was able to find the parking for the Sads. I warmed up on a little block right outside the Ice Caves, and then went to climb on my old project Beefcake. I was able to do all the moves again really quick. I got past the crux and fell on the last hard move on my next two attempts. I didn't try it again that night. I felt like my body needed sleep, food, and water (I hadn't had enough of these that day, and was tired from the drive). I went to sleep at the K-mart because I was too lazy to go find The Pit campground in the dark. When I woke up in the morning I went straight to the Sads to finish up Beefcake. It was really cold down in the cave when I got there. It was actually dark enough in the cave for a headlamp to be useful. I quickly warmed up and tried the climb. I fell earlier than my attempts the night before. I decided to rest for about a half hour. I sent the climb on my second attempt and when I finished the climb my hands were numb, because the rock was so cold. After that I went over and climbed on Pow Pow, but was unable to figure out and efficient way to do the crux move. I was able to campus the move in isolation, but I don't think that would be the best was to link the climb. I took a break in the middle of the day, then went to the Happy Boulders in the afternoon. I climbed on Morning Dove White, which was taller than I thought. I was able to do most of the moves, but my skin was trashed at that point (thanks Priest Draw). I climbed on Cholos next and could do a couple of moves. I think I could potentially do all the moves if I had good skin. I went back to The Pit after that, and camped out with some old friends from Hueco, Ryan Good and Andy Glover. The next day I went back to the Happies. I warmed up near Slow Dance and climbed on Acid Wash. I was able to do the Jug-start to Acid Wash Right (yes that's actually the name of the climb) in a few tries. I worked on the now start, but just don't have the lock-off strength to do the first move. Then I walked over to a cool little roof called Monkey Hang. I climbed Monkey Hang, and then did a cooler variation that took the climb rightwards through the roof. For the rest of the day I climbed a bunch of tall easy problems in the Slowdance and Jesus Chrysler Boulders until it got dark and I headed back to camp.

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