Monday, December 31, 2012

Eric Ran Far

This post has nothing to do with running.  In fact, Eric despises running.  It is a play on words involving Eric's last name Farran which is Ran Far when the letters are changed around.  Here is a video of Eric doing a one finger, one arm pullup.

I would like to commend Eric for this impressive feat of strength and his dedication.  I would also like to commend him for his humble personality. I was not aware that Eric was capable of this until he mentioned it during our conversation about core exercises on gymnastics rings on Youtube.  While Eric would prefer to climb instead of train he makes the best out of his situation.  He lives in the flat lands of College Station, TX nearly a two hour drive from the nearest rock or climbing gym in ATX.  In addition to this Eric works a tough construction job with long days to support his family, which consists of his wife and two kids.  Most people would simply crash onto the couch after a tough day of physical labor, but not Eric.  He chooses to train so that when the rare opportunity presents itself he can climb well considering his circumstances.  Eric is a great friend of mine that joined me on my 2009 summer sport climbing trip across western North America.  The two of us lived out of my truck together for several months.  We had a great time, and I have so many good memories from that time.  I hope this post will motivate those of us who are in similar circumstances (or are simply lazy) to improve.

A few weeks ago before the forest roads closed in Flagtown, Sam and I re-visited Leonard Canyon after an absence of a few years.  Leonard Canyon is a limestone canyon located on the southeast Mogollon Rim.  The climbing is characteristic of a blend of flagstaff roofs with Texas bulges on steep hillsides forming large, impressive features.  Here is a postdated video of the classic Swordfish prow to bring in the new year.  Happy New Year everyone.

Swordfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Hueco Tanksgiving


The Hunger Artist from John Cooper on Vimeo.

I visited the Hueco Tanks for Thanksgiving this year.  It was a bit of an impromptu last minute trip with Delete Me.  It was a good vacation to the desert, and allowed us to see many of our friends.  I tried a few classic projects including Down in Flames and Eckagrata.  I'll have to get back down there again this winter to finish these climbs off.  Here is a video of the Hunger Artist.  Enjoy!

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Rock and Ice Media

Check out this write-up that Rock and Ice did on their website on my recent second ascent of the Cobra Triangle at Choss Roof.  Rock and Ice: Video: Cobra Triangle roof problem, Hinterlands

Monday, November 19, 2012

Choss Roof


Cobra Triangle from John Cooper on Vimeo.

The Kraken from John Cooper on Vimeo.

I did the second ascent of another heinously long roof called Cobra Triangle.  Cobra Triangle is 40+ moves and takes 5 minutes to climb.  It climbs the same line as Cobra Commander except that it proceeds to finish the Cashin' Out exit after the diving board rest.  Here is a post dated video of the second ascent of the Kraken as well.  I'm heading down to Hueco Tanksgiving today for a short 5 day trip to take down my nemesis Down in Flames. 

Friday, November 16, 2012

Broken Symmetry

Matt attemping broken symmetry in Middle Elden canyon

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Northern Arizona


Cobra Commander from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Insomnia from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Mono Problem from John Cooper on Vimeo.

  Cold temperatures have finally descended on Northern Arizona.  The posse has been climbing a lot, and crushing boulder problems.  Matt Gentile put up a new climb on the Moss Roof called Insmomnia.  Insomnia starts Garden Heist, and climbs right on cool pinches to a crux move to a sidepull, and finishes on jugs.  I managed to get the second ascent.  I  did the second ascent of one of the longer lines at Choss Roof called Cobra Commander.  Cobra Commander is 45 hand moves in a roof.  It takes me over 5 minutes to do the climb.  I repeated the mono problem, which is a short and fun climb on the left side of the cave. 

  I returned to Cougarland in the New World after a two year absence.  I climbed on the BLIMP Roof project in a snow storm with Matt.  This project feels easier than the last time I climbed in the area.  This king line could potentially go before the roads are closed for winter. 




BLIMP Roof Project.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Chossy Posse


Chossy Posse from John Cooper on Vimeo.


Choss Dyno from John Cooper on Vimeo.


Warm-Up Blobs from John Cooper on Vimeo.


Choss Arete from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Choss Dyno
 
This post is for the Chossy Posse and everyone who said there are no warm-ups or easy climbs at Choss Roof.
 


Monday, October 22, 2012

Choss Roof


I've been climbing almost exclusively at Choss Roof lately in the Hinterlands.  I did the second ascent of Garden Heist yesterday.  Garden Heist starts under a small roof, climbs slopers out a bulge to a mono on the face, and finishes on jugs.  The climbing is reminiscent of limestone bulges in the ATX.  I finished a project I have been working for over a year called Choss Roof.  Choss Roof is the original testpiece on the roof and climbs a slopey fridge block to double toe hooks, and finishes with a large throw at the end.  I started working on the far right links into some of the existing climbs.  These climbs utilize straight up route climbing techniques.  The week prior I did the second ascent of the Kraken.  The Kraken climbs Choss Origins to the diving board rest, then proceeds left through the Hydra crux to the Choss Roof finish. 

 

 
 
Bat hang rest on Cobra Triangle.
 
 
 2nd Ascent of Garden Heist.
 
2nd Ascent of the Kraken. 
 
 
Chris Hluchan on Floor Pie.

 


 
 
Last week a multi-state crew descended on Flagtown to sample the prime limestone.  Pat Fitts returned with Chris Bair from Colorado (read Chossoradbro) for a week.  They revisited Cougarland in the New World.  Matt Gentile did the second ascent of Elk Graveyard and third ascent of Remnants of the Acid in the Bobcat's Den.  Fellow Texan Limestoner Chris Hluchan drove up from his new home in Southern California over the weekend.  He finished Anorexic at Priest Draw in addition to visiting Choss Roof and Renegade Roof.   

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Bobcat's Den


Cougarland - The Bobcat's Den from Patrick Fitts on Vimeo.


First Ascent of Five Lines on the Bobcat Den Roof by John Cooper. Correction: FA of Hijacked Herd done by Pat Fitts from Justin Bowen on Vimeo.

Matt Gentile did the second ascent of the Elk Graveyard this past week.  The line remained unrepeated in the remote New World for two years.  The first video is Matt doing the third ascent of Remnants of the Acid, and then the Elk Graveyard at night by headlamp.  The second video is from a few years back.  It is a video of all the existing climbs in the Bobcat's Den. 

Monday, October 8, 2012

Choss Origins


Choss Origins from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Choss Origins
 


Escape From The Blobs
 
Yesterday I did the second ascent of Choss Origins.  Choss Origins is the original line not completed on Choss Roof.  It was a drop off problem that ended on the diving board feature of the Cashin Out exit.  Sorry old timers, but the line tops out.  Choss Origins is an ultra classic, and a contender for one of the best problems in the state.  I have been working on Escape From The Blobs (exit #2) and The Kraken as well.  It's October which means that it is climbing season.  Hopefully fall temps will arrive soon.  I started climbing a decade ago in October 2002, and I'm still as psyched (possibly more) than when I started climbing in the gym back in Dallas. 


Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Northern Arizona


Treasure Map
Blimp Roof

Renegade Roof

 Matt on Hydra at Choss Roof
 Super BVB Roof at BVB Roof
 
 
Receptionist at Mars Roof
 
 
I think this is a good place to live.

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Choss Roof

  My fitness is beginning to return. I have been climbing nearly exclusively at the Choss Roof in the Hinterlands. This massive cave is amazing. Full on route tactics are employed on the roof. There are a few bats that fly around at night fall as well.  I did the second ascent of Hydra today.  I did the third ascent of the Dirty Cash a few sessions previously.  Today I repeated Dirty Cash for your video viewing pleasure.

  The only other zone I have been climbing at is Mars Roof to build power. Mars roof also serves as a good circuit to see how I am feeling and progressing towards where I was at pre-injury. I sessioned the Mars Roof Tuesday night after the second of three days doing clinicals in the Tuba City ER. Any time I go to a clinical I have to wake up at 3:30 am to account for the hour time difference, as well as the hour and a half commute. This taken into account I did a night sesh with Jake. I was able to complete one of the lines on the roof, Lolita. I progressed on the other lines and fell on either the last move or end of each climb.

 Here are two videos from Choss Roof called Hydra and Dirty Cash.
Hydra from John Cooper on Vimeo.


Dirty Cash from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Matt on Hydra.

Receptionist.  Photo from last winter.

The Girl From Ipanema. Photo from last winter.

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Fall Begins

According to my calendar fall officially began today.  I have been climbing at the massive Choss Roof lately. Today I was able to knock out some ascents at the place.  I finished off the Dirty Cash, but Murphy's law was in effect so there is no video...yet.  I got video of Attack of the Blobs, which is the first blobs exit.  I did the second ascent of a cool warm-up on the Moss Roof called Rain Closet.

Attack Of The Blobs from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Rain Closet from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Monday, September 10, 2012

More From The Draw

Rgod Is Neither from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Cosmic Bicycle from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Badass from John Cooper on Vimeo.


The rehab circuit continues. I feel like I'm ready for a mars roof sesh soon. I have been able to capture footage of many boulder problems that either have not been filmed previously, or the existing videos were climbed in poor style. Rgod is Neither and Cosmic Bicycle are on the Puzzlebox Roof. Badass is located down the Howard's draw.

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Puzzlebox

Swordfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.



The Hermit from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Pufferfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.

I sessioned at Puzzlebox roof today. I stepped up the difficulty again by repeating some of the straight out lines. I also did Cosmic Bicycle, but was unable to get footage because the camera battery died. I've been doing core and opposition training after climbing to help accelerate the process of getting back in shape.


Monday, August 27, 2012

More Easy Draw Classics

Baby Coffin from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Twister from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Twister Direct from John Cooper on Vimeo.

I am gradually increasing the difficulty during my climbing sessions. Yesterday I repeated Floor Pie and Twister. I also did the Fin-Bat Roof link-up which is good to get a pump and build some endurance. It is 50 or 60 feet long.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Priest Draw

After nearly two months without climbing due to a finger injury I'm starting up again. I'm psyched to have the Priest Draw as a place to get back in shape and rehab my finger. The draw is nice because the boulder problems have friendly handholds. I can gradually increase the difficulty each session with climbs that I'm familiar with. Today I did thirty-five easier problems. A large volume of boulder problems with low intensity is the goal for now. I plan to get video of the easier classics to add to the collection of simple one cut videos on my vimeo account.<

Bat Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.



The Fin from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Brain Boulder from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Triangle Boulder from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Refrence

There has been a lack of updates the last few months between traveling in a foreign country and my recent finger injury. I'm going to take this as an opportunity to give a shout out to my friend Travis Bibler in the CO. He is an up and coming hip hop artist that has been making new tracks and doing a lot of recent shows in the Denver area. He is doing a show at the Roxy Theatre in Denver on August 26 as an opening act for Snug Brim, a Kansas City rapper. Over labor day weekend Refrence is doing a show at Club 156 in Boulder on September 1st. This show is sure to be off the hook considering that it is the weekend after school starts at CU. If you're in the area check these shows out.

Check out his website at http://www.refrencemusic.com/

There are some additional tracks on http://www.reverbnation.com/refrence




Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Rocklands

  I took a trip to the southern hemisphere to check out the climbing in South Africa at the world class Rocklands.  The quality of the boulder problems here is on par with Hueco Tanks.  There is potential for more boulder problems than Hueco when this place has become more developed.  The different areas are spread out over a larger geographic area.  The accommodations down here are by far better than Hueco Tanks whether it be camping or staying in a cottage.  The only downside is that the weather is not as good as Hueco.  It tends to rain a fair amount in the Rocklands followed by heat and/or mist, then occasionally there will be a day of perfect conditions in which it becomes cold, dry, and windy.  The mean temperature is approximately 15 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than Hueco when it is in season. 

  The Rocklands proper or the pass is what most people think of when Rocklands comes to mind.  It is by far one of the sectors concentrated with areas that are littered with classic boulder problems of all difficulties.  The sandstone here is impressive.  It yields more steep boulder problems than the sandstone found in the western states such as in Joe's Valley and other areas. 

  There were other areas other than the Rockland's proper and the de Pakhuy's campground.  There were a few areas down the road by Traveller's rest including the Sassies and 8 day rain.  These sectors were at lower elevation and seemed to dry more quickly than the pass.  Further towards town were areas such as the old Kliphuis campground, Champsite, Riverside, and the Tea Garden. 

  Riverside is one of my favorite sectors in Rocklands.  It is a short hike to the boulders from the car, and the warm-ups are great.  The area is scenic, and has a cool water drainage system.  The rock in this zone is immaculate, and yields climbs of all difficulties.  I got video of two moderates in this zone: Baboon Roof and Les Pieds Dans L'eau.  I managed to climb a cool roof in this zone called White Mazda Clan.  Unfortunately I tweaked a pulley on this climb which ended my trip early.  The Wailing Wall was a fun moderate wall that was slightly overhung, and then kicked back to a slabby finish at the top.  The quality of rock on this wall was bomber, and the holds were dope. 

  The Tea Garden was a fun sector close to town, and literally right on the side of the road.  The Tea Garden Roof is a long classic roof climb that I finished with double toe hooks to the lip.  I began projecting Black Shadow on this trip which is an Ultra-classic.  The climbing is fun, sustained, and intense.  This climb is easily one of the best in the world. 

  I stayed at the de Pakhuy's campground during my stint in the Rocklands.  The de Pakhuy's campground blows the camping in Hueco out of the water.  There is actually water and electricity in the campsite.  There is an area for cooking, and the showers are spacious and clean.  The back wall of the showers is actually a boulder the building was constructed around.  There is a bar at the campground, as well as pizza  night twice per week.  People in South Africa eat a lot of meat, and do frequent Bries, which is basically the equivalent to a BBQ.  The downside is that there is not a great place to hang out during rainstorms.  There was a fair amount of climbing accessible from the de Pakhuy's campground.  The Fields of Joy, Plateau, Dihedral Boulders, Campground Boulders, and Arch Valley were all a short walk from the camping. 

  I enjoyed the experience of being submerged into another culture.  The area the Rocklands is located in is farm country.  de Pakhuy's farm grew amazing olives, grapes for wine, and Rooibos tea.  South Africa is the only location in the world in which Rooibos tea grows.  It is a naturally decaffeinated plant that brews a tasty beverage.  Other crops grown in the local area were oranges and grenadillas (passion fruit). 

  This was my first overseas trip out of the United States.  It was cool to see the little differences between South Africa and the States.  The metric system is an obvious difference down south.  I still have yet to comprehend why the United States feels arrogant enough to demand their own measurement system.  I use the metric system in the medical field, and I end up doing conversions constantly.  Another difference is the vehicles and traffic.  Traffic is driven on the left side of the road, and the driver's side of the car is on the right side of the vehicle.  The plants and animals in South Africa were drastically different than in the Northern hemisphere. It was not an odd occurrence to see baboons in the campground. Outlets in this country are three prong instead of two.  The currency is another obvious difference, which is Rands in South Africa.



Baboon Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Les Pieds Dans L'eau from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Manuereheim Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.

The Roof Is On Fire from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Orange Heart from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Mary's Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Au Bord De L'eau, Riverside.

Sunset from Champsite.

Vanessa on Ulan Bator, Road Crew.

View of a rainbow spanning the pass from de Pakhuy's campground.

Waterfall after a rain storm. 

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Dain's Bulge

I went to Cherry Canyon yesterday. The lake under the bulge dried up enough to climb with the use of a tarp. I managed to finish off Dain's Bulge. I worked out the beta on Uptown Vandal and Tiny Dancer. I finished the day off with another quad crown.


Dain's Bulge from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Dain's Bulge.Uptown Vandal.

Friday, April 6, 2012

Supa Roof and Drop Zone

I climbed at Supa Roof and Drop Zone yesterday with Matt. Conditions were cold and windy with a nice overcast. Matt finished off the center line out Drop Zone. I repeated the left line, and flailed on the center for a bit. Afterwards we did some endurance training on the Supa Roof using the lip to climb back around and re-enter the roof. I did a double enduro loop which probably resulted in approximately 100 feet off horizontal climbing. Props to RickyO on putting up a fun jug haul roof back in the day!

Drop Zone Left from John Cooper on Vimeo.



Supa Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Opening day at Cherry Canyon

The forest roads are finally starting to open. I went to Cherry Canyon yesterday with Pat. I thought the waiting game was over but apparently not.

Devastation under Dain's Bulge.
We found a lake under Dain's Bulge. Fortunately there are other boulder problems in the canyon. I finished the Rapture which climbs a cool roof/bulge feature with double toe hooks. The bouldering in Cherry Canyon is difficult to say the least. The boulder problems here are hard. This is the first boulder problem that I have topped out in the canyon other than the inadequate "warm-ups." Topping out a boulder problem in Cherry Canyon is hard, many of the problems are on par with difficulty similar to Serves You Right. Cherry Canyon reminds me of a more difficult version of Roger's Park in Central Texas. The bouldering is on tall limestone cliffs, and the woods are dense.

Rapture from John Cooper on Vimeo.

My truck hit 200,000 miles on the way to Cherry Canyon. I bought the truck five and a half years ago with 94ish thousand miles.


That's a lot of miles (read rock climbing).

We're still waiting for the anticipated opening of Woody Mtn Rd so we can get back to the Choss Roof.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Joe's Valley

I'm back in Flag after a week long trip to Joe's Valley. It was a much needed vacation from nursing school. It was nice to get a change of pace and climb on sandstone, as well as take a break from training for the Rocklands. I got to test out my new tent. It is a huge four person Big Agnes car camping tent, with an additional vestibule that forms a convenient kitchen with seating space.

I repeated many classics including Kill by Numbers, Stand-up Comedian, Planet of the Apes, Low Tide, and the Angler. I did some new classics including Maxipad and the Riverside traverse. The Riverside Traverse is fun and exciting as half of the traverse is above the river. It is an excellent warm up spot.

I finished off a few old projects on my trip. I managed a first try ascent of Resident Evil that I tried a few years back. I climbed on a full value boulder problem called Beyond Life. I surprised myself and sent second try in good style by keeping my feet on for the entire problem. Beyond Life climbs a beautiful overhanging face with a variety of holds including jugs, slopers, sidepulls, crimps, and even a mono pocket.

I continued trying a new climb called Strongbad. It is a roof located at the six mile marker in the left fork. At the mile marker there is a pull out to park in. Turn around so you are facing down canyon and scramble up to a boulder that forms a triangular point up on a hillside on the left side of the road. The climb is down in a cave. Strongbad climbs the roof to a crux move spanning a prow, followed by climbing on the lip to a jagged arete. It is an intense technical climb that uses a variety of techniques including toe hooks, heel hooks, heel toe cams, knee scums, and precise foot work. The crux revolves around a heel smear that forms a heel toe cam for the right foot, and a left foot posted on a small foothold in the roof. The crux move is a long huck for a bad sloper. It was first done by Rocco Bocchicchio a few years back. I was able to send the problem on one of my last attempts before returning to Flag. This may have been the second ascent. I captured video of Resident Evil and Strongbad. The Strongbad video is spliced together with 3 sections to give a better idea of the climb. This deviates away from my norm of one cut videos, but it provides a better viewing experience as well as beta for anyone wanting to try the climb.



Strongbad from John Cooper on Vimeo.




Resident Evil from John Cooper on Vimeo.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Egyptian Sector

I added a new circuit to my regimen at the Egyptian Sector. I captured video of Floorpie, Lumberjack, Saltine Crack Whore, and Action Deluxe (aka the Egyptian). I do this circuit in addition to Pasty Gangster and the Quad Crown.









I participated in a competition for the first time since high school. I competed in the Battle in the Fish Bowl Bouldering Competition (FBBC) at the NAU climbing wall. The more difficult advanced problems were set poorly (meaning that the setters simply put heinous holds far apart with inadequate feet without trying the moves or fore running), but the problems in the easier range were well set. This limitation turned the redpoint format into essentially a flash comp. Overall, the event was well organized and ran smoothly. However, the prizes could have been assigned to each place, instead of on a first come first serve basis starting with the beginner categories. There was a strong field of competitors and surprisingly large turnout in advanced. I placed 2nd in the advanced category.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Priest Draw and Sedona

I have been climbing quite a bit lately. I finished off another long term project at Priest Draw called Pink Lightning. I have been trying it on and off for the past few years. It is superb movement and long, but the fact that it is a link-up takes away from the quality a bit. Nonetheless it is 10 miles from my house so it was a fun project to work on, and use to increase my fitness. I finished off another project called Action Deluxe (aka The Egyptian). This climb is not as good as it looks. It is unique in the fact that it has double gastons in a roof requiring quite a bit of shoulder power and core to do the feet first finish in the water runnel.

I have been doing a lot of circuiting at the draw to improve my fitness. I graduated to doing the pure octo-crown, which is the quad crown twice in one session without falling. I put together another circuit in the Egyptian sector consisting of Action Deluxe, Pasty Gangster, Saltine Crack Whore, Big Ed's Flying Saucer, the climb to the right of Pasty Gangster, Floor pie, Twister, Twister Direct, and the Lumberjack start to Floor pie.

Yesterday I went down to Sedona with Matt to get reacquainted with sandstone for my upcoming Joe's Valley trip in one week. I visited Grasshopper Point and climbed at the Bikini Wall. I fell off the mantle of Viva la Revolution. I flashed Berlin, and then repeated it in good style for video. I repeated Beast from the East, which felt much easier than when I originally did it last spring. It is nice to see the progression from year to year. This is something I experienced on my winter road trip when I finished some projects from when high school and 4 years back. We attempted to cross the river to Stuff Shootin, but the river was too high due to the snow melt from the small recent storm in Flagstaff. We did a small compression block called Happy Puppies, which was not as classic as it had been described to Matt. Honestly, it was not worth the walk to do this climb.





Running a lap on Pasty Gangster.


Trying Action Deluxe (aka The Egyptian) on a miserable snowy day a few sessions prior to the send.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Puzzlebox





Temps in flag have been great, in addition to a lack of snow. We've been sessioning at PBR and some other roofs at the draw lately. Here's two videos. The first one is Phoenix Sucks #1, and the second video is Huffalufagus. I made some progress on Pink Lightning and pumped out near the end. I hit up the Anvil boulders after my Cottonwood clinical for nursing last Thursday. I climbed Mars Attacks, which is a sick compression problem on a variety of holds. It is a bit short, but the climbing is quality. I don't think I'll be revisiting the Anvils for awhile because I hate that river crossing.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Quad Crown

The Mars Roof Quad Crown is the best workout in Flagstaff. No falls = pure quad crown.






Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Hueco Tanks


Serves You Right aka Full Service


I finished my month long road trip with a stop in Hueco Tanks. I've spent a lot of time here in the past, so the focus of stopping here was more so to visit friends than because of the rock climbing. I bounced back and forth between Wagon Wheel and Shindagger during my stay. Shindagger was a bit less crowded and it now has a mini skatepark called the Ollie Pad. I got to climb for 4 days during my time here and I was able to do 2 new climbs. There have been new climbs going up in the park lately such as Cut to the Quick, AKA, and Bush League. I climbed a new roof in the Gunks called Bush League. It climbs through jugs to some slopers and crimps and a compression finish. The movement is awesome, and it is surprising that it was not done sooner. I finished my longest to date project Serves You Right (aka Full Service). I have literally been trying Serves You Right since high school when it was still way above my ability level. The quality of this rock climb is what attracted me to start trying it at such a young age. All of the holds are unique as well as the movement, and it is consistent to the top. Serves You Right may be the highest quality boulder problem that I have ever done.

Starry Eyed Man

White Horned Dancer



ATX

I spent five days in Austin in early January, and climbed every single day. I drove down from the hellscape of DFW with my brother Robbie. We climbed at a massive limestone cave northwest of Austin. The next evening I climbed at the Greenbelt with my friend Grear. I had never visited this area before. I climbed on the Whipping Post and Hank's Cave. The climbs were cool, but everything was a bit overpolished due to the fact that this area is a local spot in the city. The third day I drove up to Roger's Park with Robbie to climb some easier classics. Roger's Park is one of the first areas I ever climbed at. It is characterized by tall limestone bulges with pockets. The rock quality is good, and the area is on a hill side above lake Belton. I returned to the roof the following day and finished my project Subterranean. SubT starts in a crack and climbs on pockets with the use of heel toe cams and toe hooks to gain an amazing tufa pinch feature and a throw to a massive jug. The next day I met up with Eric and climbed at Reimer's Ranch. It had been approximately 8 years since I last visited Reimer's. The last time I was there it was still owned by Milton Reimer. Today it is a Travis County park. I finished an old high school sport climbing project called Liposuction. Liposuction climbs amazing tufas out a roof to a no hands rest, then up an overhanging wall. The climbing is pumpy, but with the amount of power I have built up over the years it was relatively easy to put this old project to rest.