Friday, March 2, 2012

Priest Draw and Sedona

I have been climbing quite a bit lately. I finished off another long term project at Priest Draw called Pink Lightning. I have been trying it on and off for the past few years. It is superb movement and long, but the fact that it is a link-up takes away from the quality a bit. Nonetheless it is 10 miles from my house so it was a fun project to work on, and use to increase my fitness. I finished off another project called Action Deluxe (aka The Egyptian). This climb is not as good as it looks. It is unique in the fact that it has double gastons in a roof requiring quite a bit of shoulder power and core to do the feet first finish in the water runnel.

I have been doing a lot of circuiting at the draw to improve my fitness. I graduated to doing the pure octo-crown, which is the quad crown twice in one session without falling. I put together another circuit in the Egyptian sector consisting of Action Deluxe, Pasty Gangster, Saltine Crack Whore, Big Ed's Flying Saucer, the climb to the right of Pasty Gangster, Floor pie, Twister, Twister Direct, and the Lumberjack start to Floor pie.

Yesterday I went down to Sedona with Matt to get reacquainted with sandstone for my upcoming Joe's Valley trip in one week. I visited Grasshopper Point and climbed at the Bikini Wall. I fell off the mantle of Viva la Revolution. I flashed Berlin, and then repeated it in good style for video. I repeated Beast from the East, which felt much easier than when I originally did it last spring. It is nice to see the progression from year to year. This is something I experienced on my winter road trip when I finished some projects from when high school and 4 years back. We attempted to cross the river to Stuff Shootin, but the river was too high due to the snow melt from the small recent storm in Flagstaff. We did a small compression block called Happy Puppies, which was not as classic as it had been described to Matt. Honestly, it was not worth the walk to do this climb.





Running a lap on Pasty Gangster.


Trying Action Deluxe (aka The Egyptian) on a miserable snowy day a few sessions prior to the send.

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