Monday, December 31, 2012
Eric Ran Far
I would like to commend Eric for this impressive feat of strength and his dedication. I would also like to commend him for his humble personality. I was not aware that Eric was capable of this until he mentioned it during our conversation about core exercises on gymnastics rings on Youtube. While Eric would prefer to climb instead of train he makes the best out of his situation. He lives in the flat lands of College Station, TX nearly a two hour drive from the nearest rock or climbing gym in ATX. In addition to this Eric works a tough construction job with long days to support his family, which consists of his wife and two kids. Most people would simply crash onto the couch after a tough day of physical labor, but not Eric. He chooses to train so that when the rare opportunity presents itself he can climb well considering his circumstances. Eric is a great friend of mine that joined me on my 2009 summer sport climbing trip across western North America. The two of us lived out of my truck together for several months. We had a great time, and I have so many good memories from that time. I hope this post will motivate those of us who are in similar circumstances (or are simply lazy) to improve.
A few weeks ago before the forest roads closed in Flagtown, Sam and I re-visited Leonard Canyon after an absence of a few years. Leonard Canyon is a limestone canyon located on the southeast Mogollon Rim. The climbing is characteristic of a blend of flagstaff roofs with Texas bulges on steep hillsides forming large, impressive features. Here is a postdated video of the classic Swordfish prow to bring in the new year. Happy New Year everyone.
Swordfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Monday, November 26, 2012
Hueco Tanksgiving
The Hunger Artist from John Cooper on Vimeo.
I visited the Hueco Tanks for Thanksgiving this year. It was a bit of an impromptu last minute trip with Delete Me. It was a good vacation to the desert, and allowed us to see many of our friends. I tried a few classic projects including Down in Flames and Eckagrata. I'll have to get back down there again this winter to finish these climbs off. Here is a video of the Hunger Artist. Enjoy!
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Rock and Ice Media
Monday, November 19, 2012
Choss Roof
Cobra Triangle from John Cooper on Vimeo.
The Kraken from John Cooper on Vimeo.
I did the second ascent of another heinously long roof called Cobra Triangle. Cobra Triangle is 40+ moves and takes 5 minutes to climb. It climbs the same line as Cobra Commander except that it proceeds to finish the Cashin' Out exit after the diving board rest. Here is a post dated video of the second ascent of the Kraken as well. I'm heading down to Hueco Tanksgiving today for a short 5 day trip to take down my nemesis Down in Flames.
Friday, November 16, 2012
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
Northern Arizona
Cobra Commander from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Insomnia from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Mono Problem from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Cold temperatures have finally descended on Northern Arizona. The posse has been climbing a lot, and crushing boulder problems. Matt Gentile put up a new climb on the Moss Roof called Insmomnia. Insomnia starts Garden Heist, and climbs right on cool pinches to a crux move to a sidepull, and finishes on jugs. I managed to get the second ascent. I did the second ascent of one of the longer lines at Choss Roof called Cobra Commander. Cobra Commander is 45 hand moves in a roof. It takes me over 5 minutes to do the climb. I repeated the mono problem, which is a short and fun climb on the left side of the cave.
I returned to Cougarland in the New World after a two year absence. I climbed on the BLIMP Roof project in a snow storm with Matt. This project feels easier than the last time I climbed in the area. This king line could potentially go before the roads are closed for winter.
BLIMP Roof Project.
Friday, October 26, 2012
Chossy Posse
Chossy Posse from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Choss Dyno from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Warm-Up Blobs from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Choss Arete from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Monday, October 22, 2012
Choss Roof
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Bobcat's Den
Cougarland - The Bobcat's Den from Patrick Fitts on Vimeo.
First Ascent of Five Lines on the Bobcat Den Roof by John Cooper. Correction: FA of Hijacked Herd done by Pat Fitts from Justin Bowen on Vimeo.
Matt Gentile did the second ascent of the Elk Graveyard this past week. The line remained unrepeated in the remote New World for two years. The first video is Matt doing the third ascent of Remnants of the Acid, and then the Elk Graveyard at night by headlamp. The second video is from a few years back. It is a video of all the existing climbs in the Bobcat's Den.
Monday, October 8, 2012
Choss Origins
Choss Origins from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Northern Arizona
Treasure Map
Blimp Roof
Renegade Roof
Matt on Hydra at Choss Roof
Super BVB Roof at BVB Roof
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Choss Roof
The only other zone I have been climbing at is Mars Roof to build power. Mars roof also serves as a good circuit to see how I am feeling and progressing towards where I was at pre-injury. I sessioned the Mars Roof Tuesday night after the second of three days doing clinicals in the Tuba City ER. Any time I go to a clinical I have to wake up at 3:30 am to account for the hour time difference, as well as the hour and a half commute. This taken into account I did a night sesh with Jake. I was able to complete one of the lines on the roof, Lolita. I progressed on the other lines and fell on either the last move or end of each climb.
Here are two videos from Choss Roof called Hydra and Dirty Cash.
Hydra from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Dirty Cash from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Fall Begins
Attack Of The Blobs from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Rain Closet from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Monday, September 10, 2012
More From The Draw
Rgod Is Neither from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Cosmic Bicycle from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Badass from John Cooper on Vimeo.
The rehab circuit continues. I feel like I'm ready for a mars roof sesh soon. I have been able to capture footage of many boulder problems that either have not been filmed previously, or the existing videos were climbed in poor style. Rgod is Neither and Cosmic Bicycle are on the Puzzlebox Roof. Badass is located down the Howard's draw.
Monday, September 3, 2012
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Puzzlebox
Swordfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.
The Hermit from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Pufferfish from John Cooper on Vimeo.
I sessioned at Puzzlebox roof today. I stepped up the difficulty again by repeating some of the straight out lines. I also did Cosmic Bicycle, but was unable to get footage because the camera battery died. I've been doing core and opposition training after climbing to help accelerate the process of getting back in shape.
Monday, August 27, 2012
More Easy Draw Classics
Baby Coffin from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Twister from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Twister Direct from John Cooper on Vimeo.
I am gradually increasing the difficulty during my climbing sessions. Yesterday I repeated Floor Pie and Twister. I also did the Fin-Bat Roof link-up which is good to get a pump and build some endurance. It is 50 or 60 feet long.
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Priest Draw
Bat Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.
The Fin from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Brain Boulder from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Triangle Boulder from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Refrence
Check out his website at http://www.refrencemusic.com/
There are some additional tracks on http://www.reverbnation.com/refrence
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Rocklands
The Rocklands proper or the pass is what most people think of when Rocklands comes to mind. It is by far one of the sectors concentrated with areas that are littered with classic boulder problems of all difficulties. The sandstone here is impressive. It yields more steep boulder problems than the sandstone found in the western states such as in Joe's Valley and other areas.
There were other areas other than the Rockland's proper and the de Pakhuy's campground. There were a few areas down the road by Traveller's rest including the Sassies and 8 day rain. These sectors were at lower elevation and seemed to dry more quickly than the pass. Further towards town were areas such as the old Kliphuis campground, Champsite, Riverside, and the Tea Garden.
Riverside is one of my favorite sectors in Rocklands. It is a short hike to the boulders from the car, and the warm-ups are great. The area is scenic, and has a cool water drainage system. The rock in this zone is immaculate, and yields climbs of all difficulties. I got video of two moderates in this zone: Baboon Roof and Les Pieds Dans L'eau. I managed to climb a cool roof in this zone called White Mazda Clan. Unfortunately I tweaked a pulley on this climb which ended my trip early. The Wailing Wall was a fun moderate wall that was slightly overhung, and then kicked back to a slabby finish at the top. The quality of rock on this wall was bomber, and the holds were dope.
The Tea Garden was a fun sector close to town, and literally right on the side of the road. The Tea Garden Roof is a long classic roof climb that I finished with double toe hooks to the lip. I began projecting Black Shadow on this trip which is an Ultra-classic. The climbing is fun, sustained, and intense. This climb is easily one of the best in the world.
I stayed at the de Pakhuy's campground during my stint in the Rocklands. The de Pakhuy's campground blows the camping in Hueco out of the water. There is actually water and electricity in the campsite. There is an area for cooking, and the showers are spacious and clean. The back wall of the showers is actually a boulder the building was constructed around. There is a bar at the campground, as well as pizza night twice per week. People in South Africa eat a lot of meat, and do frequent Bries, which is basically the equivalent to a BBQ. The downside is that there is not a great place to hang out during rainstorms. There was a fair amount of climbing accessible from the de Pakhuy's campground. The Fields of Joy, Plateau, Dihedral Boulders, Campground Boulders, and Arch Valley were all a short walk from the camping.
I enjoyed the experience of being submerged into another culture. The area the Rocklands is located in is farm country. de Pakhuy's farm grew amazing olives, grapes for wine, and Rooibos tea. South Africa is the only location in the world in which Rooibos tea grows. It is a naturally decaffeinated plant that brews a tasty beverage. Other crops grown in the local area were oranges and grenadillas (passion fruit).
This was my first overseas trip out of the United States. It was cool to see the little differences between South Africa and the States. The metric system is an obvious difference down south. I still have yet to comprehend why the United States feels arrogant enough to demand their own measurement system. I use the metric system in the medical field, and I end up doing conversions constantly. Another difference is the vehicles and traffic. Traffic is driven on the left side of the road, and the driver's side of the car is on the right side of the vehicle. The plants and animals in South Africa were drastically different than in the Northern hemisphere. It was not an odd occurrence to see baboons in the campground. Outlets in this country are three prong instead of two. The currency is another obvious difference, which is Rands in South Africa.
Baboon Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Les Pieds Dans L'eau from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Manuereheim Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.
The Roof Is On Fire from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Orange Heart from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Mary's Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Au Bord De L'eau, Riverside.
Sunset from Champsite.
Vanessa on Ulan Bator, Road Crew.
View of a rainbow spanning the pass from de Pakhuy's campground.
Waterfall after a rain storm.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Dain's Bulge
Dain's Bulge from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Dain's Bulge.Uptown Vandal.
Friday, April 6, 2012
Supa Roof and Drop Zone
Drop Zone Left from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Supa Roof from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Sunday, April 1, 2012
Opening day at Cherry Canyon
Rapture from John Cooper on Vimeo.
My truck hit 200,000 miles on the way to Cherry Canyon. I bought the truck five and a half years ago with 94ish thousand miles.
That's a lot of miles (read rock climbing).
We're still waiting for the anticipated opening of Woody Mtn Rd so we can get back to the Choss Roof.
Saturday, March 17, 2012
Joe's Valley
I repeated many classics including Kill by Numbers, Stand-up Comedian, Planet of the Apes, Low Tide, and the Angler. I did some new classics including Maxipad and the Riverside traverse. The Riverside Traverse is fun and exciting as half of the traverse is above the river. It is an excellent warm up spot.
I finished off a few old projects on my trip. I managed a first try ascent of Resident Evil that I tried a few years back. I climbed on a full value boulder problem called Beyond Life. I surprised myself and sent second try in good style by keeping my feet on for the entire problem. Beyond Life climbs a beautiful overhanging face with a variety of holds including jugs, slopers, sidepulls, crimps, and even a mono pocket.
I continued trying a new climb called Strongbad. It is a roof located at the six mile marker in the left fork. At the mile marker there is a pull out to park in. Turn around so you are facing down canyon and scramble up to a boulder that forms a triangular point up on a hillside on the left side of the road. The climb is down in a cave. Strongbad climbs the roof to a crux move spanning a prow, followed by climbing on the lip to a jagged arete. It is an intense technical climb that uses a variety of techniques including toe hooks, heel hooks, heel toe cams, knee scums, and precise foot work. The crux revolves around a heel smear that forms a heel toe cam for the right foot, and a left foot posted on a small foothold in the roof. The crux move is a long huck for a bad sloper. It was first done by Rocco Bocchicchio a few years back. I was able to send the problem on one of my last attempts before returning to Flag. This may have been the second ascent. I captured video of Resident Evil and Strongbad. The Strongbad video is spliced together with 3 sections to give a better idea of the climb. This deviates away from my norm of one cut videos, but it provides a better viewing experience as well as beta for anyone wanting to try the climb.
Strongbad from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Resident Evil from John Cooper on Vimeo.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Egyptian Sector
I participated in a competition for the first time since high school. I competed in the Battle in the Fish Bowl Bouldering Competition (FBBC) at the NAU climbing wall. The more difficult advanced problems were set poorly (meaning that the setters simply put heinous holds far apart with inadequate feet without trying the moves or fore running), but the problems in the easier range were well set. This limitation turned the redpoint format into essentially a flash comp. Overall, the event was well organized and ran smoothly. However, the prizes could have been assigned to each place, instead of on a first come first serve basis starting with the beginner categories. There was a strong field of competitors and surprisingly large turnout in advanced. I placed 2nd in the advanced category.
Friday, March 2, 2012
Priest Draw and Sedona
I have been doing a lot of circuiting at the draw to improve my fitness. I graduated to doing the pure octo-crown, which is the quad crown twice in one session without falling. I put together another circuit in the Egyptian sector consisting of Action Deluxe, Pasty Gangster, Saltine Crack Whore, Big Ed's Flying Saucer, the climb to the right of Pasty Gangster, Floor pie, Twister, Twister Direct, and the Lumberjack start to Floor pie.
Yesterday I went down to Sedona with Matt to get reacquainted with sandstone for my upcoming Joe's Valley trip in one week. I visited Grasshopper Point and climbed at the Bikini Wall. I fell off the mantle of Viva la Revolution. I flashed Berlin, and then repeated it in good style for video. I repeated Beast from the East, which felt much easier than when I originally did it last spring. It is nice to see the progression from year to year. This is something I experienced on my winter road trip when I finished some projects from when high school and 4 years back. We attempted to cross the river to Stuff Shootin, but the river was too high due to the snow melt from the small recent storm in Flagstaff. We did a small compression block called Happy Puppies, which was not as classic as it had been described to Matt. Honestly, it was not worth the walk to do this climb.
Running a lap on Pasty Gangster.
Trying Action Deluxe (aka The Egyptian) on a miserable snowy day a few sessions prior to the send.
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Puzzlebox
Temps in flag have been great, in addition to a lack of snow. We've been sessioning at PBR and some other roofs at the draw lately. Here's two videos. The first one is Phoenix Sucks #1, and the second video is Huffalufagus. I made some progress on Pink Lightning and pumped out near the end. I hit up the Anvil boulders after my Cottonwood clinical for nursing last Thursday. I climbed Mars Attacks, which is a sick compression problem on a variety of holds. It is a bit short, but the climbing is quality. I don't think I'll be revisiting the Anvils for awhile because I hate that river crossing.
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Hueco Tanks
Starry Eyed Man