Went to Cherry Canyon with Noah and Sam yesterday. I haven’t been there since November, when the Forest Service locked the gates. Noah and I both worked on Uptown Vandal, and it felt just as good as it did back in the Fall. I repeated all of the moves first try, except the strange lock off to the crimp-pocket on the face, which is still elusive. My body positioning must not be correct, as everyone else can do it easily.
The big event of the day, however, was Sam’s final attempt to repeat “Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo Matt Birch”. After doing the first move up to the the left hand crimp, the right hand gaston exploded off of the wall, most likely rendering the problem unclimbable. Upon further inspection, none of us could figure out how the hold had managed to stay on the wall for as long as it had, as there was a layer of dirt and mud left behind. Unfortunately, this effectively renders the low start improbably difficult, and most likely impossible.
Sam Tingey reaching for the now broken hold from the sit start…
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