Friday, October 31, 2008

Priest Draw

I went to the Draw last night with Pat. We climbed at Puzzle Box Roof, or as people have started calling it lately PBR. I went to work on the sit to Cosmic Tricycle. I did all the moves a while ago, but I stopped trying it because it has a super painful kneebar that basically bruises and cuts my knee after about 3 attempts. It takes about three weeks for the cut to completely heal. So I decided to buy a French-yuppie knee pad from the Canadians so that I could do this climb. I only used the knee pad under my pants, because I didn't want the extra friction or rubber all over the hold. I just want to be able to climb on this problem for more than 3 tries. The kneebar was still painful, but the kneepad allowed me to climb on it and focus on the moves instead of the pain. I have the climb down to two sections, and the crux is taking out the kneebar. Before I could send I tore a flapper in my left index finger on the 3rd pad. It was a clean tear and didn't bleed but I had to stop trying my project. So I decided to run my circuit at that roof before we left. It consists of:
Pufferfish
Unknown climb to the right of Pufferfish(similar difficulty)
Belly Sidepulls
Puzzlebox
I may expand the circuit at that roof as time goes on. There are so many lines there that have gone up recently. All of the new lines are pretty cool even though most of them are link-ups or variations. Pat climbed on Puzzlebox and made pretty good work on it. He nearly flashed it but then had trouble figuring out the end. I'll have at least a week for the flapper and knee to heal up before I head back because I'm heading to Groom Creek for the weekend to try Eclipse, and then on Tuesday I might check out the Anvil Boulders as long as it isn't too hot in Sedona.

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