Saturday, January 28, 2012

Puzzlebox





Temps in flag have been great, in addition to a lack of snow. We've been sessioning at PBR and some other roofs at the draw lately. Here's two videos. The first one is Phoenix Sucks #1, and the second video is Huffalufagus. I made some progress on Pink Lightning and pumped out near the end. I hit up the Anvil boulders after my Cottonwood clinical for nursing last Thursday. I climbed Mars Attacks, which is a sick compression problem on a variety of holds. It is a bit short, but the climbing is quality. I don't think I'll be revisiting the Anvils for awhile because I hate that river crossing.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Quad Crown

The Mars Roof Quad Crown is the best workout in Flagstaff. No falls = pure quad crown.






Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Hueco Tanks


Serves You Right aka Full Service


I finished my month long road trip with a stop in Hueco Tanks. I've spent a lot of time here in the past, so the focus of stopping here was more so to visit friends than because of the rock climbing. I bounced back and forth between Wagon Wheel and Shindagger during my stay. Shindagger was a bit less crowded and it now has a mini skatepark called the Ollie Pad. I got to climb for 4 days during my time here and I was able to do 2 new climbs. There have been new climbs going up in the park lately such as Cut to the Quick, AKA, and Bush League. I climbed a new roof in the Gunks called Bush League. It climbs through jugs to some slopers and crimps and a compression finish. The movement is awesome, and it is surprising that it was not done sooner. I finished my longest to date project Serves You Right (aka Full Service). I have literally been trying Serves You Right since high school when it was still way above my ability level. The quality of this rock climb is what attracted me to start trying it at such a young age. All of the holds are unique as well as the movement, and it is consistent to the top. Serves You Right may be the highest quality boulder problem that I have ever done.

Starry Eyed Man

White Horned Dancer



ATX

I spent five days in Austin in early January, and climbed every single day. I drove down from the hellscape of DFW with my brother Robbie. We climbed at a massive limestone cave northwest of Austin. The next evening I climbed at the Greenbelt with my friend Grear. I had never visited this area before. I climbed on the Whipping Post and Hank's Cave. The climbs were cool, but everything was a bit overpolished due to the fact that this area is a local spot in the city. The third day I drove up to Roger's Park with Robbie to climb some easier classics. Roger's Park is one of the first areas I ever climbed at. It is characterized by tall limestone bulges with pockets. The rock quality is good, and the area is on a hill side above lake Belton. I returned to the roof the following day and finished my project Subterranean. SubT starts in a crack and climbs on pockets with the use of heel toe cams and toe hooks to gain an amazing tufa pinch feature and a throw to a massive jug. The next day I met up with Eric and climbed at Reimer's Ranch. It had been approximately 8 years since I last visited Reimer's. The last time I was there it was still owned by Milton Reimer. Today it is a Travis County park. I finished an old high school sport climbing project called Liposuction. Liposuction climbs amazing tufas out a roof to a no hands rest, then up an overhanging wall. The climbing is pumpy, but with the amount of power I have built up over the years it was relatively easy to put this old project to rest.