BLIMP Roof Project

B.L.I.M.P Roof FAIL from Sam T on Vimeo.

Lip Encounter from Sam T on Vimeo.

Down in Flames Fail

Coop on Down in Flames from Sam T on Vimeo.

Here is a video of one of my early attempts on Down in Flames last season. I managed to fall on the end section 15ish times after that. That's exactly what I do best, falling on the end of boulder problems.

I added a video archive on the left side of the site. I linked videos of Reflection Eternal at Roger's Park, Pufferfish at Priest Draw, and bouldering at Petit Jean in the Ozarks.

Cougar Land

Here is a video of the 5 lines in the Bobcat's Den.

First Ascent of Five Lines on the Bobcat Den Roof by John Cooper. Correction: FA of Hijacked Herd done by Pat Fitts from Justin Bowen on Vimeo.

We developed a new area called the Neighborhood. The Neighborhood is a cluster of freestanding limestone boulders atop a pennisula at a bend in the canyon. There is a concentration of easy moderate problems here, we added 15 last saturday, with potential for many more. Justin got video of a few climbs in the Neighborhood including Suburban Gangfight(FA-Pat Fitts), and Jurassic Terrorist(FA-Justin Bowen).

A Few FAs From The New World from Justin Bowen on Vimeo.

Cougar Land

Development has continued this fall season at Willow Canyon, aka Cougar Land. Pat and I have been climbing in the Bobcat's Den, and 5 new lines have been added. Pat did the FA of Hijacked Herd on the left side of the roof. Hijacked Herd starts in a large horizontal crack and climbs out jug pockets to a top out on rails. Sam T added an endurance line that traverses the lip of the roof from left to right. It's easily over 60 feet of climbing. I added 3 new lines to the cave: The Elk Graveyard, Remnants of the Herd, and Remnants of the Acid. I started projecting The Elk Graveyard last fall when we discovered the new world. It took numerous days of figuring out the most efficient sequence to link the climb together. Like most of my projects, this turned into an epic of falling at the end for several days before I finished it. A few weeks prior to my ascent of The Elk Graveyard, I did a climb called Remnants of the Herd. Remnants of the Herd starts in a pocket complex and climbs out more pockets and underclings to a feet first finish. The low start is called Remnants of the Acid and consists of one of the longest moves I've ever done on a roof, followed by a bicycle to navigate the next 2 pockets, a difficult swing, and then climbing Remnants of the Herd.

The Elk Graveyard FA filmed by Justin Bowen.

The Elk Graveyard First Ascent by John Cooper from Justin Bowen on Vimeo.

Remnants of the Acid 2nd Ascent by Patrick Fitts.

Remnants of the Acid from Patrick Fitts on Vimeo.

Mars Roof

Suplexing Navajos, Mars Roof

Mars Roof is a limestone roof with 4 difficult climbs that feature pockets, toe cams, toe hooks, drop knees, etc. There are also 4 lines that start on the right and finish each exit, heinous creations of Sammy D. I managed to finish the Girl from Impanema on my birthday this year, followed by Suplexing Navajo and Lolita during the next week. I made an ascent of the Triple Crown consisting of Lolita, Suplexing Navajos, and the Receptionist during my attempt to do the Quadruple Crown, which is sending all 4 climbs in a session.

RMNP Season 2010

I moved to Estes Park, CO last May and stayed there until mid-August. I spent my summer climbing on the alpine blocs of Rocky Mountain National Park, mainly in Upper Chaos Canyon. The bouldering in RMNP is a more compact form of granite called gneiss. The boulders lie at an elevation of 10,200-10,600 feet, and require a 2-3 mile hike uphill and through talus.

I spent the summer wielding a chainsaw and picking up sticks for Adam’s Tree Service, also known as the world’s strongest tree crew, as far as bouldering goes. Adam’s Tree Service has seen the likes of many strong climbers including Adam Strong (Owner), Phil Schaal, Nick Duttle, Chris Webb-Parsons, Kevin Cuckovich, Justin Alarcon, and many others.

I climbed on many sick boulder problems in Upper Chaos. I climbed a dream boulder problem of mine called Eternia during my time in the park. Eternia is a 20 foot roof climb that starts on an obvious rail and climbs out the cave on crimps, jugs, and underclings to a feet first toe hook finish. It is reminiscent of a Hueco Tanks and Priest Draw hybrid boulder problem on Gneiss at 10,500 feet.

I did a couple of road trips based out of Colorado this summer to avoid the tourists during the holidays in Estes Park. I visited Joe’s Valley over Memorial day weekend and Tensleep Canyon during the Fourth of July.

While I was in Joe’s Valley I met up with Rocco Bocchicchio who showed me some new climbs and projects at the six mile marker. I climbed on this roof he established called Strongbad, which is reminiscent of Rumble In The Jungle. I did some other climbs including a Yuri Kimball FA called Blue Lambo, right on the side of the road by the river. Blue Lambo climbs a beautiful arete with a strange, but fun first move.

During the Fourth of July I checked out the amazing limestone at Tensleep Canyon in Wyoming with fellow Flashed Athlete Ian Dory. The limestone in Tensleep features good movement on really good rock. I climbed some classics including Beer Bong and School’s Out. I tried this awesome climb called Aunt Jemima’s Bisquick Thunderdome, which climbs 2 bolts of technical slab with small holds, to 3 clips of easy slab, to an overhang with two and three finger pockets. Unfortunately we were rained out my last day there, so I didn’t get a chance to finish this climb.

Joe's Valley April 2010

Raiden No Substance

The Food Ranch

I visited Joe's Valley 2 weekends ago. I climbed on a lot of classic problems that I had never been on including Kelly's Arete, Raiden, Killed by Numbers, Chips, Self Service, and I'd Rather Be Climbing Her.

After the Hueco Tanks season I decided to take a month off climbing to allow my body to recover from the winter and the past 2 years of constant climbing without a long break. I've been climbing at Mars Roof and a few other areas in Northern Arizona to get my fitness back. I'm moving to Estes Park, CO this weekend to spend the summer climbing in the high country,as well as working a tree trimming job, before I have to return to Flagstaff in the fall for nursing school.

Hueco Tanks Update

A few days ago, I finished a project that I have been working on for the past four years called Rumble In The Jungle.

Rumble In The Jungle. Photo: Pat Fitts

I’ve been trying another sick roof climb at the Aircraft Carrier called Down in Flames. BJ Tilden did the FA a few years ago, and the climb never saw much action until this season.

Down In Flames. Photo: Isaac Palatt

Unlock This(Low start to the Locksmith). Photo:Isaac Palatt

I did the FA of a boulder problem above the Dark Heart called Uncle Drunkie a few weeks ago. Uncle Drunkie climbs a tall water streak wall on crimps.

New Problem

I did the first ascent of a new roof climb in the Dragon's Den on Saturday. The roof is located on the backside of the Crimping Christ boulder. The ATX crew I was with suggested the name Cooper's Way, so check it out if you're in the area.