Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Circuit Day at the Draw

I decided to do a circuit day at Priest Draw. My goal was to do 10 rock climbs harder than Puzzlebox. I managed to do the following 10 climbs:
1.Puzzlebox
2.Belly Sidepulls
3.Cosmic Tricycle
4.Pufferfish
5.Climb to the right of Pufferfish
6.Black Roof
7.Floor Pie
8.Twister
9.Climb to the left of Saltine Crack Whore
10.Anorexic

I hope to expand this circuit to approximately 20 climbs, with more difficult rock climbs included.

Monday, April 27, 2009

New Projects

I've been climbing a lot the past few days in Northern Arizona. I'm almost done with school, and I'm psyched to focus on climbing for the next three months. I picked up five new projects at three different areas in the past three climb days:

Badass Climb, Cherry Canyon

Slot Throw, Cherry Canyon

Pink Lightening, Priest Draw

Chandler Dub All Stars, Priest Draw

Planet Terror, Kelly Canyon

I've also been formulating some goals for the next few years while living in Flagstaff:

1.Mars Roof Quadruple Crown at Priest Draw.

2.Send all the existing routes at the Oven.

3.Send all the legitimate lines at Priest Draw.

4.Establish new boulder problems or routes.

5.Travel to as many places as possible.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Cherry Canyon







I finally made it back to Cherry Canyon, it only took me 10 months to get around to it. This place is really reminiscent of Roger's Park in Central Texas, with the great exception that everything here is hard. I'm psyched on the Dane's Big Bulge Wall, which has several hard problems and a few projects as good as anywhere. I climbed on 2 different climbs on this wall. One of the climbs starts under a small roof and climbs through a pocket to 2 crimps. From the crimps is a weird accuracy jump into a slot, and then easier moves to the top. The other climb starts under a roof and does a few easy moves to an undercling, hard slapping to crimps, and then a tall, proud finish. There are some videos on the Blurr website of Zach Lerner doing these climbs as well as another from Cherry, and a few climbs from the Draw. http://www.blurrstuff.com/

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Back in the Day

This is a photo of Sign of the Cross from my first winter at the Hueco Tanks taken by Johnny Landry.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Maple Canyon

I went to Maple Canyon this weekend. The road to the top of the canyon is nearly thawed out, there is very little snow. I climbed in Box Canyon with Shannon. I started working a line out the left side of the Cobble Roof called Loser. I am able to make it 6 bolts up and halfway through the crux section. I did a climb called Griptease 2nd try after falling off the last hard move on my flash attempt. I also did the climb to the left which is a little easier.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Terminal Vector

I finished Terminal Vector today at the Pit. Terminal Vector is my hardest route to date. The moves on Terminal Vector get increasingly harder and steeper. There are several left hand throws and a long layback crack at the end which involves a blind throw to a sharp jug. I sent the route in the dark, and this was my first time sport climbing in the dark. I'm still working on Resurrection.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Update

The Girl, Priest Draw. Photo: Jamie Bozicnik
I've been busy with school and work since spring break. I finished the Girl today out at Mars Roof. The above photo is from October 2008. I've been working on the Eyptian out at the Draw. I made a visit to the Glorias last weekend and climbed on Cross-Eyed Nurse. I wasn't able to figure out the first 2 moves of the climb. The fact it was dark, probably wasn't helping the cause. I've also been working on Resurrection out at the Pit. I got a new high point the other day, by getting through the crux and falling on the last hard move. The Flashed team website is up, so check it out: